See a Slice of France Along Its Canals

Victor Block on Jul 20, 2025

I recently took a stroll through a charming town in France that, because of its many canals and bridges -- I was told it has 131 overpasses -- is known as the Venice of the area. While some neighborhoods of Montargis (population about 15,000) have a modern feeling, its downtown area retains an inviting medieval allure.

Overlooking the Loing River and Briare Canal, the village has a history that includes a castle, originally built in the 12th century, and remains of a church that predate a fire that destroyed most of the town in 1525. Some ancient half-timbered houses in central Montargis also escaped that blaze.

Another day I visited the medieval hilltop town of Sancerre, situated along the banks of the Loire River, a member of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France (The Most Beautiful Villages of France) Association. In addition to that accolade, Sancerre is famous for its outstanding wines and for being where the noted Crottin de Chavignol cheese was created.

I explored these lovely villages and others during a French Country Waterways barge cruise in the Loire region of France. The Canal de Briare, Canal Lateral a la Loire and Canal du Long are among a number of such waterways that crisscross that area. Gliding through the region on a slow-moving luxury barge is a perfect way to combine fine food and wines, inviting shore excursions and the opportunity to relax in comfort.

The history of the French canals traces back to the 17th century. That is when King Henry IV of France decreed that a giant ditch be dug across the country to connect the Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean Sea. Soon barges pulled by horses or people transported raw materials, grain, textiles and -- this being France -- wine through the channel.

That waterway was the first of an elaborate network of canals that now crisscrosses the countryside, passing over aqueducts and through tunnels and navigating locks that enable the barges to climb up and down hills. My wife and I recently followed one of these routes, but the formerly no-frills working boat in which we rode had been transformed into a luxurious floating hotel and gourmet restaurant. It carries 12 passengers, stopping each day to allow travelers to explore an inviting variety of attractions. We were sailing with French Country Waterways, an American-owned company that operates luxurious passenger barges along canals in four regions of France.

The Nenuphar, on which we traveled, was built in the 1930s to serve as a working boat. Today it rivals some multi-starred hotels in which we have stayed. Cherry-wood paneling, brass fittings and lovely provincial furnishings set the tone. Cabins have a private bathroom and individual heat and air-conditioning controls. The lounge invites relaxing on comfortable sofas and chairs and offers a well-stocked complimentary bar.

The food and wine served aboard the barge vied for admiration with the magnificent scenery through which the boat passed. Think foie gras with brioche and apple. Picture confit duck, braised red cabbage and haricot verte.

Then there's the French claim that no lunch or dinner is complete without wine. We were offered vintages representing many of the country's wine-growing districts, often from Grand Gru (great growth) and Premier Cru (first growth) vineyards.

The wines were chosen directly from the properties of the growers, and the final list is selected during an annual tasting of estate-bottled labels. Among my favorites were a richly colored pinot noir from the Gevrey-Chambertin region that, to my tongue, provided hints of ripe strawberries. Intense, oaky Meursaults and Puligny-Montrachets, which, I was told and my palate searched for, offer suggestions of ripe citrus and florals along with nutty notes, were also on the menu.

As the vessel moves slowly along canals, those on board face a welcome choice of alternatives. Relax and watch other boats pass by. Step ashore at one of the locks the boat traverses and walk, or pedal a provided bicycle to the next lock. Go to the front deck and watch the barge navigate through one of the locks that raise or lower the water level.

Because the canals climb hills and run through valleys, locks handle changes in elevation. These devices allow boats to rise or drop to the level of the next stretch of the channel.

The canals provide passengers with views of lovely rolling vineyards and lush farmlands along with charming villages. Those history-rich hamlets, along with inviting vineyards and world-class food and wines, greet visitors to France with open arms. Taking in these attractions during a canal barge cruise adds a welcome way to enjoy much that the popular destination has to offer.

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WHEN YOU GO

Fares for French Country Waterways cruises include all the onboard gourmet meals and fine wines, a memorable dinner at a Michelin-starred restaurant, around-the-clock snacks and open bar, shore excursions and more: fcwl.com or 800-222-1236.

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Victor Block is a freelance writer. To read features by other Creators Syndicate writers and cartoonists, visit the Creators Syndicate website at www.creators.com.