There’s something about the letter A that just makes someone, or something, feel more important.

It’s the first letter a toddler learns in the alphabet song, as well as proof of a job well done from a teacher. It’s also a pretty important vowel that’s necessary for the pronunciation of countless words and sentence construction.

A also marks the beginning of something. In the vegetable world in spring, that means one thing: those long, green spears with the grassy flavor we know as asparagus.

Sorry artichokes, aubergines and other veggies at the head of the line in an alphabetical list. We know you’re great, too, but asparagus rules supreme when winter melts into spring, the sky is finally blue and all we want on the dinner table is something that tastes fresh and earthy and super-seasonal.

Whether or not its consumption causes a stink (if you know, you know!), we love this nutrient-rich member of the lily family for so many reasons. Not only is it extremely versatile — it can be steamed, grilled, roasted or be eaten raw — but the veggie plays nice with just about every protein, grain, eggs and dairy. That makes it easy to tuck into your favorite dish to give it a bright, spring flavor, be it pasta or a stir-fry, a pan bake or skillet dish, or a soup or chowder.

It’s also pretty nutritious for something that has just 3 (!) calories per spear. A good source of antioxidants, a serving of asparagus also provides vitamins and minerals like vitamins A, C, E, K and B6, along with folate, iron, copper, calcium, protein and gut-friendly soluble and insoluble fiber so long as you don’t cook the heck out of it.

Its only drawback — and this is a minor concern that’s easily corrected by fast eating — is that it’s a delicate, highly perishable vegetable that should be used within a day or two or purchase.

How to choose the best bunches? Look for strong spears that have closed, compact, tight heads. If a stalk snaps instead of flopping when it’s bent in half, it’s fresh! The base should also look juicy and freshly cut instead of dried out, and your eyes should be dazzled by its vibrant green color (unless you’re buying purple or white asparagus, which also should be vibrant). And if it’s slimy or withered? Wait for the next crop to come in.

Whether you choose pencil-thin stalks or opt for ones that are thicker is a matter of preference; if they’re young, they’ll be equally tender. (Rather than a sign of freshness, thickness is just a sign of the age of the root bed.)

To prep your asparagus for whatever you’re cooking, trim the bottom ends first, and then wash the spears thoroughly. If you simply must wait a day or two to use them, stand the stalks upright in 2 inches of cold water or wrap them in a damp paper towel.

To get you started, we’ve gathered four asparagus recipes that go above and beyond standard expectations and make the most of the fleeting (local) asparagus season. All should earn the cook an A not just for effort, but also taste, texture and versatility.

They include a creamy risotto topped with peppery arugula; a custardy frittata that comes together in about 10 minutes; a light and airy tempura dish that will get kids to eat their vegetables; and a vegetal take on a Caesar salad.

Asparagus and Arugula Risotto

PG tested

Risotto takes a little time, but it’s fairly easy to prepare if you’re patient — just stir, stir and stir some more.

I added asparagus and arugula microgreens for color, but you could substitute peas or use no vegetables at all.

Be sure to use Arborio rice, a starchy short-grain rice that cooks to a creamy consistency. You can find it in most larger grocery stores and Italian markets.

6-7 cups chicken, vegetable or garlic broth or stock, as needed

Salt and freshly ground pepper

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 shallots, minced

8 ounces cremini (baby bella) mushrooms, sliced

2 garlic cloves, minced

1½ cups Arborio rice

½ cup dry white wine

1 cup of asparagus slices

2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

Handful arugula microgreens for garnish

In large stockpot, bring stock or broth to simmer. Season to taste with additional salt and pepper, if necessary, and keep it simmering on the stove.

Heat oil in a wide, heavy nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add shallots and cook, stirring often, until softened and aromatic, 3-5 minutes.

Turn up heat and add sliced mushrooms. Cook, stirring frequently, until they begin to sweat, about 3 minutes, then add garlic.

Cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Season with salt and pepper and continue to cook over medium heat until. Taste and adjust seasoning.

Add rice and stir until grains are evenly coated in oil and toasted but not browned, 3-4 minutes. Add wine and cook, stirring, until wine has almost evaporated.

Add enough simmering stock to just cover the rice. The stock should bubble slowly. Cook, stirring often and vigorously, until stock is just about absorbed.

Add another ladle or two of stock and continue cooking, stirring often and adding more stock when rice is almost dry, for 15 minutes.

Add asparagus and continue adding stock and stirring for another 10 minutes. Rice should be tender all the way through but still al dente. Taste and adjust seasoning.

Add another ladle or two of stock to rice. Stir in chopped parsley and grated Parmesan, and remove from heat.

Season with a little more pepper, if desired, and garnish with arugula microgreens, if using.

Serve right away in wide bowls or on plates.

Serves 6.

— Gretchen McKay, Post-Gazette

Asparagus Frittata

PG tested

A frittata is the Italian version of an omelet. Crustless and open-faced, it’s cooked on the stovetop in a nonstick pan. Think of it as an egg pizza.

For grilled asparagus

1 pound asparagus

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 garlic clove, smashed

12 fresh mint leaves, sliced into thin ribbons

Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

For the frittata

4 large eggs

2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese, plus more for serving

Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Fresh mint leaves, for garnish

Grill asparagus: Snap tough, wood ends off asparagus and rinse spears thoroughly. Slice any thicker spears lengthwise, leaving the slender ones whole.

Place spears in large bowl and dress with olive oil, lemon juice,garlic and sliced mint.

Toss gently to coat and allow to marinate for about 30 minutes.

Heat a cast-iron grill pan over high heat. A few drops of water should bounce and evaporate quickly when pan is hot enough.

Grill asparagus in batches until tender, slightly bendy and charred in spots, about 3 minutes. Transfer to plate and season with salt and pepper.

Make frittata: In bowl, beat eggs until smooth. Add grated cheese and season with a generous pinch of salt and several grinds of pepper.

Place a 9- or 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Pour in olive oil until it shimmers.

Arrange the grilled asparagus in a single layer in pan. Pour the egg mixture over the asparagus and gently shake pan to evenly distribute it. Scatter over torn mint leaves.

Cook the frittata over medium heat until the edges are set, the bottom is golden and the top is still slightly wet, 6-8 minutes.

Invert a large plate over the pan and, in one quick motion, flip the frittata into place. Return the pan to the stove, slide the frittata back into the pan and cook for another 2-3 minutes, until fully set.

Slide frittata onto a serving plate, flipping it so the nicest side with the neatly lined-up asparagus faces up. Sprinkle with more grated cheese and serve immediately.

Serves 2 as an entree and 4 as an appetizer.

— “Vegetables the Italian Way: Turning Simple and Fresh into Extraordinary” by Giulia Scarpaleggia (Artisan, $35)

Asparagus Tempura

PG tested

If you want to get kids to eat something, it almost always works to dip it in batter and fry it. This crispy, deep-fried appetizer features a light batter made with just two ingredients: flour and beer. (I used a hazy cherry IPA I found in the fridge.)

1 pound asparagus, trimmed to 6 inches

Neutral oil, such as canola or vegetable, for deep-frying

For batter

1 12-ounce bottle beer

1½ cups all-purpose flour

For dipping sauce

3 tablespoons mirin

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons soy sauce

3 tablespoons water

Make batter: Combine beer and flour in a large bowl and stir together just until a batter forms; do not over mix. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

Prepare tempura: Heat 3 inches of oil to 400 degrees in a large deep saucepan over medium-high heat, or use a deep fryer.

Working in batches, dip asparagus spears in the batter, letting the excess drip off.

Carefully add to hot oil and fry until batter is deep golden. Using a slotted spoon or skimmer, transfer the asparagus to a cooling rack or a plate lined with paper towels. Make sure to let the oil return to 400 degrees before adding next batch.

Serve tempura with the dipping sauce, lime wedges and maldon salt.

Serves 4-6.

— adapted from “Vegetables Unleashed” by Jose Andres

Grilled Asparagus Caesar

PG tested

I fried the croutons in olive oil instead of baking them in this easy Caesar recipe from cookbook author Mark Bittman. I also tossed them in grated Parmesan instead of nutritional yeast and used regular mayonnaise instead of vegan.

8 ounces rustic whole-grain bread, torn into 1-inch pieces

8 tablespoons olive oil

Salt and pepper

1 tablespoon grated Parmesan cheese

2 medium zucchini, sliced into ½-inch coins

1 pound asparagus, trimmed of woody ends

1 large garlic clove, halved

1 tablespoon drained capers

¼ cup mayonnaise

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

1 teaspoon soy sauce

2 hearts romaine lettuce, or 1 small head, rinsed, drained and chopped

1 small red onion, halved and sliced

Preheat oven broiler.

Make croutons: Heat 2 tablespoon olive oil in a small saucepan. When sizzling, add bread cubes and a generous pinch of salt, and cook, tossing often, until the cubes are brown and toasty.

Remove croutons to bowl and toss them with grated Parmesan cheese and set aside while you prepare salad.

Put zucchini and asparagus on a rimmed baking sheet and drizzle with 2 tablespoons oil. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and toss to coat.

When broiler is ready, broil the vegetables until they are tender and charred, turning them as necessary to prevent burning, 6-10 minutes for the aparagus and 10-15 minutes for the zucchini.

Rub a large bowl with the garlic. Cut the vegetables into bite-sized pieces and transfer to bowl. (I used a ceramic bowl and minced the garlic and added to bowl along with the veggies.)

Put capers in a small bowl and mash them with a fork. Add mayonnaise, the vinegar and soy sauce and sprinkle with salt and lot of back pepper. Whisk to combine, then whisk continuously while you slowly pour in the remaining 4 tablespoons oil.

Taste and adjust seasoning.

To serve, add lettuce and onion to the grilled vegetables, drizzle with half the dressing or more to taste, and scatter some croutons on top.

Toss, adding more dressing or croutons if you like, and serve. Pass the remaining dressing and croutons at the table.

Serves 4.

— “Dinner for Everyone” by Mark Bittman

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