The classic BLT is a source of delight, comfort and sustenance through the summer. The combination of sweet-tart tomato, crisp-rich bacon, crunchy lettuce and lush mayo defines a great sandwich with universal appeal.

The BLT was the first meal I learned to make for myself with my cousin Jack after surfing at the New Jersey shore. Sometimes in our fierce, sunburned hungers, we’d swap out the bacon for potato chips. We’d slice thick our grandmother’s garden tomatoes, add iceberg lettuce, and spread Hellman’s on puffy white bread, then chase it all down with a frosty bottle of Coke.

Now that we’re past tomato season, the quest is on for a sandwich with autumn appeal.

Start with great bread with slices you’d like to enjoy on their own. Toasting can improve the flavor and texture if it’s in danger of becoming soggy. Choose ingredients with contrasting textures and tastes. How about sharp Cheddar cheese, bacon and snappy apples griddled to a golden fare-thee-well? Or funky brie, bacon and mellow sweet pear on a toasted baguette?

The through line for any great sandwich is bacon — savory and chewy with just enough crunch. Come winter, I’ll lean into slices of cooked beets and bacon with a swipe of chevre on multigrain bread or slices of roast butternut squash and bacon with a drizzle of hot honey on rye.

A little well-cooked bacon does a whole lot of good. Look for bacon with fat evenly distributed through each strip. Thick slices hold up to cooking and won’t crumble as you build the sandwich. Among the different cooking methods, I prefer sheet-pan baking for easy cleanup, especially when multiple slices are involved (see the cooking tip below).

Salty and succulent, bacon is the secret to the perfect hand-held meal.

Bacon, Brie and Pear Baguette Sandwich

Serves 4 to 6.

The baguette makes a sturdy base for these rich, flavorful ingredients; toasted sourdough slices will also work well. We’ve added a smear of orange marmalade for sweet tang, but that’s optional. Slice the sandwich into halves or quarters for appetizers. They’ll hold up for a day when made ahead and covered. From Beth Dooley.

1 (18- to 24-in.) baguette, sliced on the diagonal

1 to 2 tbsp. orange marmalade, optional

4 to 6 oz. brie cheese, sliced thin

1 large pear, peeled, cored and sliced thin

8 slices cooked bacon (see Cooking Tip)

Directions

Toast the baguette slices. Spread each slice with the marmalade. On half of the baguette slices, arrange the brie on one of the sides spread with marmalade, then place the sliced pear on the brie, and place the bacon on top of the brie. Place the remaining baguette slices, marmalade side down, on top of the bacon. Cut and serve.

Cooking tip: The best way to cook bacon is in the oven (less spatter and cleanup). Preheat the oven to 400 degrees and line a baking sheet with enough aluminum foil to hang over the sides of the pan. Arrange the bacon slices over the aluminum foil so they do not touch. Bake until crisp, about 12 to 15 minutes. Remove the sheet pan and using tongs, lift the bacon to set on paper-towel lined plate to drain.

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Beth Dooley is the author of “The Perennial Kitchen.” Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.

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