We stood on the Danube Promenade on the Pest side of Budapest, not far from the architecturally stunning Hungarian Parliament building, where dozens of shoes—men’s, women’s and children’s—lined the riverbank. Yellow ribbons inscribed with affirmations like, “we will dance again,” encircled each shoe.

Installed 20 years ago, the “Shoes on the Danube Bank” memorial is a remembrance of the 3,500 people, 800 Jews among them, shot into the river from this very spot during World War II. From the crowd in attendance and the fresh flowers and other tokens strewn among the shoes, it was clear that time had forgotten neither the people nor this terrible deed.

We were exploring Budapest before boarding the AmaMagna—the one-of-a-kind flagship of AmaWaterway’s river fleet and twice the width of traditional European river ships—for the debut voyage of the company’s new roundtrip Danube River itinerary. “The Best of the Danube” had been created in response to guest feedback requesting more scenic cruising on what is one of Europe’s most storied rivers. The “Shoes on the Danube Bank” was one of my must-see landmarks; the other was the Holocaust Memorial Center.

Also located in Budapest, this museum’s permanent exhibition, “From Deprivation of Rights to Genocide,” documents the Holocaust in Hungary through the stories of families and individuals, archive photos, films and newsreels, touchscreens and audio clips with headphones. This museum offers one of the most engrossing exhibitions on this subject I’ve seen, and we spent hours reading our way through the eight galleries.

Budapest’s beautiful architecture, a mélange of baroque, Renaissance, Gothic and Romanesque styles, also captivated—and the enchantment continued throughout our journey as we sailed to Bratislava, Slovakia; Linz, Austria; and Vienna, the City of Music, where some of the world’s greatest composers (Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, Ludwig van Beethoven, Franz Schubert, Joseph Haydn, Johannes Brahms, Gustav Mahler and Johann Strauss, composer of “The Blue Danube”) lived and worked.

“The Best of the Danube” was a voyage of music, culture and history—both its highlights and heartbreaks—and one of discovery, tradition and making memories.

“The river is the real culture of Europe,” said cruise manager Martina Valachova. “Our owners crafted this beautiful itinerary where people will enjoy such an amazing combination of capital cities and ancient villages like Dürnstein and the entire Wachau Valley, A UNESCO World Heritage Site, and home of Melk Abbey.

“All the cruising time, the fine dining, great cocktails, activities, luxuries like massages—this is the best way to explore Europe,” Valachova added.

Both onboard and ashore, friendships form easily through shared experiences, including those that take place around the dinner table. On the night we dined at AmaMagna’s family-style Jimmy’s Wine Bar & Restaurant, 10 strangers became friends over a gourmet Thanksgiving-style feast. The Chef’s Table with its open-kitchen concept also raised the bar, with an array of dishes exquisitely prepared and plated, including beef and seafood entrées, and desserts that looked like sculpted pieces of art (There is no upcharge but both restaurants require reservations.)

On the more casual side, Al Fresco serves lighter cuisine with a Mediterranean twist and a river view. Cheeseburgers are also on this menu, and I became an instant fan of the perfectly grilled and seasoned AmaWaterway burger. Everything was impeccable in each restaurant, from the presentation to the personal service, a hallmark of the cruise line.

Yoga, stretch and Pilates classes filled the mornings. The daily Sip and Sail cocktail hour brought everyone into the lounge for Valachova’s highly entertaining talks about the next day’s adventures. The onboard entertainers, a talented and versatile duo, performed live music during the afternoon and evening and organized themed trivia games, dance parties and a craft session. While in Melk, a local string trio boarded the ship and treated us to an evening of classical and not-so-classical music.

The highlights of this itinerary were many: strolling cobblestone streets lined with street art, statues and book, gift and candy shops in Bratislava, Slovakia, and hiking to Bratislava Castle, perched on a hill above the old town. Witnessing the sheer beauty of the Wachau Valley, with its medieval castles and postcard-pretty villages, in the Strudengau region.

On the walking tour of charming and historic Linz, a UNESCO City of Media Arts, our guide pointed out the balcony from which Hitler proclaimed the Greater German Reich. (Download “Hitler’s Linz,” a self-guided tour with six stops available through GPSmyCity, for context and background.)

Our guide, a volunteer at Mauthausen Concentration Camp, pointed out the Linz buildings made with stones quarried by Jews working in the forced labor camps. Located about 12 miles east of Linz, Mauthausen operated as a labor camp from 1938 until liberated by the United States Army in 1945.

In Vienna, we boarded a horse-drawn carriage for a tour through the city’s old center. Afterward, we ducked into the imposing Gothic-style St. Stephen’s Cathedral, its massive south tower puncturing the skyline, joining others in lighting candles in memory of lost loved ones. We then explored the area on foot, ending at a chocolate store for a bag of sweets.

We also visited Schonbrunn Palace and Gardens, a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Sites and the summer palace of Empress Maria-Theresa (1717-1780) — the only female ruler in the Hapsburg Dynasty, and one who took the reins at just 23 years of age. Our tour guide led us through the magnificent Great Gallery, Maria-Theresa’s private writing room, the extravagant ceremonial Millions Room, in which the empress received her guests, and so many others, each more opulent than the last.

It was a bit too early in the season for the palace gardens to be in full color and bloom, but they are nonetheless grand and impressive in size and scope, with Roman Ruins, a maze, monuments, statuary and ornate fountains, an orangery, zoo, Carriage Museum and other features. Following tradition, we ended our tour with a coffee and torte at one of the cafés on the palace grounds.

The experience, like our entire AmaWaterways journey, was a rich one, sweetened with history and stunning architecture, the Danube River having taken us, as Valachova said, to the real culture of Europe.

Plan your travels

An overnight pre-cruise at the Aria Hotel Budapest, part of the Library Hotel Collection family of exquisite properties, is a treat. This award-winning musically themed hotel features 49 sumptuous guestrooms, each a tribute to a musical legend, from Puccini to BB King, and situated in four wings that overlook the keyboard unfurling across the floor of the lobby. Individually decorated rooms have appointments including fireplace, writing desk, gorgeous artwork—and oh, those glorious views. Speaking of, Aria’s year-round High Note SkyBar provides comfy rooftop seating and 360-degree views of the city.

In the evening, the warm lilt of live piano music fills the lobby, known as the Music Garden and site of complimentary breakfast and late afternoon wine and cheese reception. This is a hotel that leaves nothing to chance, from little extras like ear plugs and satin sleep mask to a menu of pillows to in-room goodies including grooming essentials, heater and fan and other amenities. (Staff will even turn on the towel-warmer in the gleaming bathroom if you so desire.) www.ariahotelbudapest.com

AmaWaterways’ new Best of the Danube itinerary, with a focus on scenic cruising, grand cities and popular landmarks, is one of many options for cruising the Danube River with this family-owned and operated company. Additionally, AmaWaterways offers a variety of river voyages in Europe, Asia and Africa. Expect peerless personalized service, award-winning dining, multiple excursion options in each port, a Zen Wellness Studio and other amenities, including a new full-size pickleball court on the ship’s Sun Deck, which also features a pool and whirlpool; you won’t be disappointed. www.amawaterways.com

PHOTOS

AmaWaterways’ beautiful AmaMagna docked in Linz, Austria

Kathy Witt

The “Shoes on the Danube Bank” memorial in Budapest, Hungary

Kathy Witt

Hungarian Parliament building in Budapest, nicknamed the Pearl of the Danube.

John Witt

Holocaust Memorial Center in Budapest, Hungary

Kathy Witt

AmaWaterways’ Cruise Manager Martina Valachova

John Witt

Jimmy’s Wine Bar & Restaurant aboard AmaWaterways’ AmaMagna

Gourmet dining at The Chef’s Table aboard AmaWaterways’ AmaMagna

“Donauwellen” (Danube Waves) live performance in AmaMagna’s lounge.

John Witt

Street art in Bratislava, Slovakia

Kathy Witt

In 1938, Hitler proclaimed the Greater German Reich from this balcony, City Hall, in Linz in Austria.

Kathy Witt

An “Imperial Vienna” tour and carriage ride is one excursion option in Vienna, Austria.

Kathy Witt

St. Stephen’s Cathedral in Vienna, Austria

Kathy Witt

Schonbrunn Palace and Gardens

Kathy Witt

The ornate Vieux Laque Room at Schonbrunn Palace

John Witt

Aria Hotel Budapest, part of the Library Hotel Collection, with its Music Garden lobby.

Kathy Witt

Guestrooms at Aria Hotel Budapest are flawlessly beautiful.

Kathy Witt